Seeing François Bertheau for a second time was a great reminder of how these wines are definitive examples of Chambolle-Musigny that express a purity of Pinot Noir like nowhere else. Sourcing from only six hectares of vines, Bertheau's understated style perfectly suits what I've come to expect from my favorite village in Burgundy.

Tasting the 2017's in barrel with François was a masterclass focused exclusively on Chambolle-Musigny. Sensitive and thoughtful are the two traits of François that always seem to ring true. There is only ultimate craftsmanship in this cellar ranging a handful of cuvées from parcels spread throughout Chambolle. Hand labeling for to-go orders (pictured below) is a touch that illustrates François' sensibilities.

Bottlings of Bertheau back to the '80s are still among my list of the most profound Burgundy wines I've ever had, as they embody the essence of what makes Pinot Noir from this village so cherished. The wines stay lifted while holding onto a finely woven thread of chalky minerality that supports structure for the long haul in the cellar.

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