Blog
Champagne Equilibrium
Last holiday season, our staff had a smorgasbord tasting of champagnes from the Kogod cellar. I wasn’t able to attend, but Max was kind enough to hand-deliver some of the highlights to my doorstep, including David L'eclapart and Marguet. He also insisted that I needed to try Olivier Horiot, a micro-producer in the village of Les Riceys.
5 Sens (or five senses) is our favorite in the lineup and has the most breadth, as it's a blend of Arbane, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Noir. Les Riceys is a commune of three villages situated in the southernmost part of Champagne. The Kimmeridgian soil here is the same you'll find in Chablis and Sancerre, except these slopes primarily grow Pinot Noir. The village is also known for its Rosé des Riceys, a long-held tradition that’s now kept alive by a mere 15 to 20 producers.
Olivier is the third generation to pursue viticulture. His father and grandfather sold all their fruit to the local cave coopérative until Olivier began winemaking in 1999. The Horiots farm seven hectares—all farmed biodynamically—but keep just two hectares for themselves. Olivier jokingly calls it the Champagne equilibrium. “This balance [allows us] to have more fun with the stuff we vinify independently,” he explained to Louis/Dressner, “to craft them more to our taste.”
Recent Articles
-
Saumur Blanc Royalty: Domaine Guiberteau July 05, 2022
-
Saumur Blanc Royalty: Domaine Guiberteau July 05, 2022
-
Champagne Crescendo: Bérêche Brut Reserve June 30, 2022
-
Maestro of Veneto: Quintarelli Back to 2010 June 29, 2022
-
Pfalz Wizardry: 2020 Koehler-Ruprecht Saumagen June 28, 2022
Tags
- Abruzzo
- Albarino
- Aligote
- Alsace
- Alto Piemonte
- Amarone
- American Oak
- Anjou
- Antonio Galloni
- Apertif
- Arbois-Pupillin
- Argentina
- Ayl
- Baden
- bairrada
- Bandol
- Barbaresco
- Barolo
- Beaujolais
- Beaune
- Beer
- Belgium
- Bien Nacido
- Bierzo
- biodynamic
- Blanc de Blancs
- blanco
- Bordeaux
- Bordeaux Blend
- Botti
- boudignon
- boulay
- Bourgogne
- Bourgueil
- Bramaterra
- Breze
- Brouilly
- Brunello di Montalcino
- Brut
- Burgundy
- Cabernet Franc
- Cabernet Sauvignon
- California
- Campania
- Canary Islands
- Cannonau
- Carbonic
- Carignan
- carmenere
- Carricante
- cava
- Cellar
- Cerasuolo
- Chablis
- Chambolle-Musigny
- Champagne
- Chardonnay
- Chassagne Montrachet
- chateau
- Chateau Chalon
- Chateauneuf du Pape
- Chateauneuf-du-Pape
- Chavignol
- Chehalem Mountains
- Chenin
- Chenin Blanc
- Chianti Classico
- Chichee
- Chiroubles
- chiusa spagnolo
- Christoph Schaefer
- Cider
- Cinsault
- Clairette
- Clear Lake
- clos
- Clos David
- Clos de la Rue
- Clos Rougeard
- collier
- Collio
- collio goriziano
- Collita Roja
- Columbia Gorge
- contrada
- contrada barbabecchi
- contrada campo RE
- contrada feudo di mezzo
- contrada zottorinoto
- Coombsville
- Cornas
- cornelissen
- Cotat
- Cote d'Or
- Cote de Beaune
- Cote de Brouilly
- cote de nuits
- Cote Rotie
- Côte-Rôtie
- Coteaux de Dijon
- Cotes du Jura
- Cotes du Rhone
- coulee de serrant
- CR
- Crozes-Hermitage
- CS
- cuvee vigne alte
- Dagueneau
- Dauvissat
- Dijon
- Dolcetto
- Domprobst
- Dry
- Dry Riesling
- Dujac
- Ecueil
- Eola-Amity Hills
- Eric Asimov
- Etna
- Extra Brut
- Female Winemaker
- Fiano
- Fleurie
- France
- frank
- Frappato
- Frauenberg
- Freisa
- French Alps
- Friulano
- Friuli
- Galicia
- Gamay
- Gang of Four
- Garnacha
- Gattinara
- Germany
- gevrey chambertin
- Gevrey-Chambertin
- Ghemme
- Gigondas
- giulia
- Glou Glou
- Goldkapsel
- Graach
- gran reserva
- Grand Cru
- Granite
- Grenache
- Grenache Gris
- Grosses Gewachs
- Grower Champagne
- GSM Blend
- guiberteau
- Haro
- haut medoc
- Hermitage
- himmelreich
- Hubacker
- huet
- IGT
- Italy
- joly
- Jon Bonne
- José Pastor
- Jura
- Keller
- Kermit Lynch
- Kimmeridgian Soil
- king
- Klaus Peter Keller
- Kupp
- Lambic
- Langhe
- Languedoc
- Left Bank Bordeaux
- leroy
- Les Minots
- Les Riceys
- Lessona
- loire
- Loire Valley
- Louis/Dressner
- Macabeau
- Macon
- Madrid
- Magma
- malbec
- Malvasia
- margaux
- marl
- Mascarello
- McKinlay
- medoc
- Melon
- Melon de Bourgogne
- Mencia
- Mercurey
- Merlot
- Meursault
- Monopole
- Mont Blanc
- Montagne de Reims
- Montalcino
- montbenault
- Montefalco
- Montepulciano
- montevertine
- Monthelie
- Morey-Saint-Denis
- Morgon
- Mosel
- Mourvedre
- munjebel
- Muscadet
- Nahe
- Napa Valley
- Naples
- Natural Wine
- Neal Martin
- Neal Rosenthal
- Nebbiolo
- nerello
- Nerello Mascalese
- New California
- New York Times
- Northen Rhone
- Northern Rhone
- Nuits-Saint-Georges
- Oak Knoll District
- Old School
- Old Vine
- Old Vines
- Old World
- Oregon
- organic
- PA
- Pardas
- Passetoutgrain
- Patagonia
- Penedes
- pergole torte
- petit verdot
- Pfalz
- pian del ciampolo
- Piedmont
- Pineau d'Aunis
- Pinot Noir
- piuze
- Ploussard
- Pommard
- ponca
- porcaria
- Portugal
- Poulsard
- premier cru
- Provence
- Puligny Montrachet
- Puligny-Montrachet
- Radda
- Rajat Parr
- raul perez
- red
- Regnie
- Reserve
- Rheinhessen
- Rhone
- rias baixas
- Ribeira Sacra
- Riesling
- riserva
- Rose
- rosso
- Rouge
- Rougeard
- Roussillon
- RR
- Ruwer Valley
- Saar
- Sagrantino
- Saint Aubin
- Saint Esteph
- saint joseph
- Sancerre
- Sangiovese
- Sans Soufre
- Santa Barbara County
- Santa Cruz Mountains
- Santa Maria Valley
- Sardinia
- Sashi Moorman
- Saumur
- Sauvignon Blanc
- Savagnin
- Savoie
- sergio manetti
- Serine
- Sicily
- Sierra de Gredos
- Skin Fermented White
- Sonoma
- Sonoma Coast
- Sour Beer
- Southern France
- Southern Rhone
- Spain
- Sparkling
- Spatburgunder
- Sta. Rita Hills
- Stainless Steel
- Summer
- Super Tuscan
- Syrah
- Teroldego
- Terroir
- thibaud
- tocai
- toscana
- Touriga Nacional
- Trebbiano
- Trentino
- trocken
- Tuscany
- Umbria
- UNESCO
- USA
- VA
- vacheron
- Vaillons
- Valpolicella
- Value
- Vatan
- Veneto
- venezia
- Verduno
- Vermentino
- Vermouth
- Verzy
- Vieilles Vignes
- vielles vignes
- village
- Villages
- Vinous
- Viognier
- Volnay
- Vosne-Romanee
- Vouvray
- White
- White Burgundy
- Whole Cluster
- Willamette
- Willamette Valley
- Willi Schaefer
- World Heritage Site
- Xarello
- Zev Rovine
- Zinfandel