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Bare-Naked Chablis: Chateau de Béru
"Admirers of racy, mineral Chablis should give this important estate serious consideration." — William Kelley, Wine Advocate
Finding Chablis deeply entrenched in the natural category while still delivering rigor and classicism is a challenge. Hunting down ample quantities of Château de Béru, who's become a leader in the natural movement, was challenging for a while, but thanks to New York importer Zev Rovine and his expansion out west, that's changed.
The Béru family has owned and farmed Château de Béru for four centuries, and their eight hectares of planted vines are known as some of the stoniest vineyards in all of Chablis. Comte Éric de Béru's daughter, Athénais, has overseen the estate since 2004, and she quickly converted their farming to organic and biodynamic practices.
The wines unfurl in the glass, opening up over an hour to reveal more luscious green apple, lime zest, toast, and almond paste, all held together with a brilliantly strict vein of minerality. For me, Chablis hits the highest note when that wet stone mineral quality meets with a crystalline level of acidity. Old oak is used for élevage, and the wines ferment with native yeasts. No filtering or fining.
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