Burgundy symbolizes the farm-first mentality and humble spirit of vigneron as much as anywhere in France. This is not the land of ascots, majestic chateaux with marketing firms to match. Here, astronomical rises in vineyard prices haven't changed the mind set of those farming them.
There's no domaine I came across that embody this idea more than Christian, Anne, and their daughter Florence Cholet-Pelletier. The careful study and delineation of Burgundy's vineyards over centuries mean there are secret cuvées to be had if you look hard enough. Their Puligny-Montrachet is precisely this wine, whose magic is realized when you learn of the three vineyards that make its composition.
The prime source for their Puligny comes from directly below Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet, in the lieu dit of "Enseignières". Also blended are two parcels: "La Rouselle" below Premier Cru Perrières, and "Les Levrons" below Premier Cru Referts. The combination of these three elements belies the price tag and "humble" villageslevel designation required due to blending practice. I've had the opportunity to taste this wine going back many vintages at the domaine and the 2014 is undoubtedly its most monumental, and will greatly reward those who cellar.
As one can imagine, Enseignières imbues the wine with the power and richness that Bâtard-Montrachet is famous for. With Rouselle and Levrons providing the fine, laser-focused minerality of Perrières and Referts. The sum of the parts is a complete Puligny-Montrachet that delivers the regal frame and saturating depth that's made it the most prized village for Chardonnay on the planet.
The winemaking at Cholet-Pelletier is traditional with the real focus on time in the vineyard. Neutral and 2nd year barrels are used for aging to minimize new oak influence. After 1 year in wood the wine is moved to tank prior to bottling to ensure tension and structure remain highlighted.
I was fortunate enough to work alongside the family at various points during the growing season before my time had started at Domaine Dujac. It was at Cholet-Pelletier that I was introduced to Bernard Boisson. Like those of Boisson, the wine today is produced in minuscule quantities, and like much of Boisson's wines we are the only listing in the entire US.
2014 is a vintage that I've done my best to go deep on, and there's no single wine I've devoted more space to than today's ultimate insider bottling.
2014 Cholet-Pelletier Puligny-Montrachet
$49 per bottle.