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2015 White Burgundy Cult Classic: The Whisper of Boisson-Vadot
The Boisson-Vadot wines are the best bottles of Burgundy that you've never heard of. They are largely consumed by a dedicated following in France. What is exported to the US overwhelmingly ends up on wine lists at The French Laundry and Eleven Madison Park. However, weekly hang out sessions with Bernard Boisson after I would finish classes at the University of Dijon in early 2012 put these wines on my radar, and it was my mission upon opening shop to hunt them down.
Bernard, his son Pierre, and daughter Anne, are the best kept secret in Burgundy's Côte de Beaune. The family's friendship with Domaine Coche-Dury has clearly had an impact on the style of wine here, one with a magical touch of reduction that so many try to emulate with very few finding similar success. Here that reduction is executed brilliantly, offering a flinty and saturating mineral quality matched with deep texture and outrageous concentration and length.
* The wines from this family may bear different names on the label, but they are all made in the same cellar, following identical principles. I've stopped my futile attempts in discenrning the style differences between Pierre and Bernard's Bourgogne Blanc, as each vintage I find something add odds with last years opinion. In short, they're both terrific and regularly out-class wines at twice their price point.
Anne Boisson's Aligoté has a depth and dynmaic personality that's much more akin to profound Chardonnay than Aligoté. Serving this blind to friends is always the best way possible to prove that the wines from this family are at the top of the game.
Pierre Boisson's 2014 Auxey Duresses 1er Cru En Reugne is a late release. Pierre felt the wine needed another year in bottle before it was suitable for drinking. This is the highest altitude and chalkiest soil the domaine farms. The wine always the most precise, and mineral-drenched in the lineup. That reductive character also shown in a vivid light here.
New oak is limited to 30% at most. The wines see long aging with no battonage, and family farmed lands have been free of pesticides and herbicides for generations.
2015 Anne Boisson Bourgogne Aligoté
$38 per bottle.
2015 Pierre Boisson Bourgogne Blanc
$49 per bottle.
2015 Bernard Boisson-Vadot Bourgogne Blanc
$49 per bottle.
2014 Pierre Boisson Auxey Duresses 1er Cru En Reugne (Late Release)
$86 per bottle.
2015 Pierre Boisson Meursault
$90 per bottle.
2015 Anne Boisson Meursault Sous la Velle
$95 per bottle.
2015 Bernard Boisson-Vadot Meursault Les Grands Charrons
$129 per bottle.
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