The Mosel is home to the very most laser-focused and filigreed Rieslings in Germany. Here the steepest vineyards in the world perched over the Mosel river are just about the furthest north that grapes can grow. The energy and delicacy of wines from along the winding river have fascinated me to no end for years. Estates like J.J. Prüm and Fritz Haag have put this iconic region on the worldwide collector map since the 1700's. But, today we hone in the new generation and its most adventurous ambassador.
A.J. Adam's wines thrill for their unmistakably saturating and powerful style, buffered with electrifying acidity that the Mosel is known for. It's the unmatched texture here that really marvels the senses and stands out from the more traditionally-minded estates. At under 4 hectares this minuscule property is farmed entirely by hand. While, sadly, the new generation here is not up for this tall task, Adam embraces it with a contagious fervor. A visit just before harvest in 2012 was my first exposure to these wines, and since then each vintage has been accumulating in my personal cellar.
Grey-blue slate dominates the slopes in the villages of Dhron and Piesport where Adam works vines planted in the 1950's. The incredibly steep Hofberg vineyard receives maximum sun exposure and is moderated by the Dhron tributary below and the whipping winds coming above from the Hunsrück Mountains. Maximum ripeness is pushed to the extreme and a fierce dry extraction in the cellar is the hallmark here.These are the most textural wines of the Mosel, and among the very most detailed and complex.
Adam works with many styles from the bone-dry Grand Cru level Hofberg (GG in all but name due to his absence from the VDP category), to his painfully rareBeerenauslese. Wines tasted back to 2001 have barely budged in their evolution, still with fresh salinity and a layered personality unparalleled in Germany.
The 2015 vintage plays perfectly into Adam's style. Very hot summer temperatures were followed by unusually cold fall nights that have given us wines with outrageous ripeness and concentration, with a stern backbone of acidity that provides the most impeccable balance one could ever hope for. Many growers have not seen results like this since 1971.
2015 A.J. Adam Dhroner Riesling Trocken (dry)
$33 per bottle.
2015 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Kabinett
$27 per bottle.
2015 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Spätlese
$44 per bottle.
2015 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Auslese
$57 per bottle.
2015 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Trocken (dry)
$63 per bottle.
2015 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Trocken 1.5L (dry)
$134 per bottle.
2015 Adam & Haart Goldtröpfchen Riesling Trocken (dry)
$80 per bottle.
2013 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Kabinett
$31 per bottle
2012 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Kabinett
$32 per bottle.
2013 A.J. Adam Dhroner Riesling (Off-Dry)
$33 per bottle.
2013 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Spätlese
$49 per bottle.
2007 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Beerenauslese #6 375ml
$87 per bottle.
2001 A.J. Adam Dhronhofberger Tholey Riesling Spätlese #2
$133 per bottle.