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2012 Alto Piemonte Rewind: Rovellotti Ghemme Chioso Dei Pomi

2012 Alto Piemonte Rewind: Rovellotti Ghemme Chioso Dei Pomi

2012 throughout Piedmont gave us open-knit wines with tremendous purity. While most wines have been released some time ago, and quantities long gone, those from Alto Piemonte's Rovellotti family in Ghemme were the last to arrive. Each year I'm all-in on this alpine Nebbiolo-based star, and 2012 has an upfront magic that cannot be missed.

Today, I'm happy to offer the flagship wine from Rovellotti, the 2012 Ghemme Chiosi dei Pomi for $47 per bottle.

Rovellotti was introduced to importer, Neal Rosenthal by the Ferrando family of Carema. When you taste Rovellotti it's clear these two estates are cut from the same cloth. Chiosi dei Pomi is a prime three hectare vineyard located in the center of Ghemme's Baraggiola zone on red clay. Comprised of 85% Nebbiolo and 15% Vespolina, this traditional blend lets the latter variety provide some softness in this cooler, high altitude zone.

I find a huge range of styles in Ghemme (and Alto Piemonte as a whole), with many examples showing grippy tannins that call to mind the tar rather than roses. What I love about the wines from Rovellotti (and Ferrando) is the softness of the fruit and elegance of the structure both still completely driven by its sense of place.

Rovellotti's exclusive protocol of pumping over during fermentation and avoiding punchdowns of the cap plays a huge role in this more sensual and graceful texture. Each vintage tasting Rovellotti it's their light-handed touch and supreme drinkability that stand out so much from the pack.

Chiosi dei Pomi sees traditional vinification and aging in large Slavonian oak for 12 months, then racked into smaller (but still quite large!) five hectoliter barrels for 18 months. And then, of course, the wine is aged in bottle for an extended period of time at the estate prior to release.

In the 2012 edition, notes of dried black cherries, cinnamon, and orange peel jump out of the glass. And the famous floral rose quality of Nebbiolo melds with an alpine mint inflection that lingers on the long finish.

Introducing Rovellotti to customers who love Barolo and Barbaresco has given me a huge sense of gratification. In every circumstance there's a mix of joy and revelation, as the extended aging means this release is always so easy to drink from day one. Pricing for the Ghemme Chioso dei Pomi at $47 is always one of the great values in Piedmont, and in 2012 the mid-weight charm of this inviting Nebbiolo is crystal clear.
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