For greatness and value in France, we go directly to Domaine de la Pépière on the western edge of the Loire. Pepiere's wines offer immediate satisfaction, age at a glacial pace, and rival the sophistication found in Sancerre and Chablis at half the price.

Domaine de la Pépiere rents vines in the Gorges cru that used to belong to regarded grower Michel Brégeon. The 1.67-hectare plot was planted in the 1960s and 70s. Because it is far from the estate, their colleague Fred Laillé works the vines organically, Pépière works his Clisson vines, and they exchange the fruit. Gorges is the only area in Muscadet with basalt soils, yielding wines with unique structure.